bike (trailer) panel light from lcd monitor
Work by taking things apart, taking out the display unit.
This device is made of thin metal and is usually glued together with adhesive tape and glue.
From the front to the back, the unit has the following layers :-
A horizontal polarized filter in the form of adhesive plastic sheets glued to the LCD glass. -
Actual LCD unit: looks like green glass with ribbon film cable (
In fact, it is two pieces of glass with a grid of wires, transistors, transparent electrodes, 4 color filters embedded in each pixel, and of course LCD sandwiched in the middle. -
Another piece of adhesive plastic that is polarized in the vertical direction is glued to the back of the LCD glass. -
Matte transparent plastic sheet (
This is also polarized on my monitor). -
Used to point the backlight to the Fresnel prism on the left and right for easy viewing from the side. -
Acrylic wedge with small notch: it guides the light evenly from the cold shade above the wedge to the entire screen (
From now on, it\'s called wedding \'). -
White clear plastic sheet and metal back for reflection.
The project does not require a partial film and an LCD panel.
Too crispy and too powdered cold and yin (
Compensate for the green tone of the LCD panel).
Also, it blew up a 12v ballast in 3 seconds! ! !
Instead, the led will be used in the same position where the old tube is located (
= In the wedge).
Stacking the remaining layers in the same order as the original layer shows the possibility of the panel: shining the flashlight beam into the wedge to see a uniform distribution!
The yellow LEDs will illuminate the screen in the right color.
But I still have a lot of white LEDs that can be used with the yellow sheet filter, while the yellow ones have to be ordered.
I did try two kinds of super brightness, but more is needed to get even lighting.
The battery load is too large and the cost is too high.
Place LEDs in parallel using 2 perf boards.
7 led by 3 (rechargeable)AAA batteries (3. 6V in total)with a switch.
The battery bracket is made of e1.
49 flash lights with a good switch.
The Led is kept at a distance of about 2 cm from the wedge connected to the frame to spread its beam and to avoid uneven beam appearance in the display.
Of course, theoretically put them in series with resistors, but the flashlights that recycle LEDs don\'t have these, but it seems to work well!
Panel lights don\'t use them a lot, so hopefully I can get away with it. . .
If not, I will regret it because changing a blown LED needs to be completely different
Assembly of adhesive and caulking units! ! !
The battery stand and switch will be installed in the project box with some velcro on the trailer, bike or unit itself.
One problem: the display is too square. . . (4:3).
It would be great if I had a wide screen monitor, or two identical monitors, but alas. . .
Therefore, the panel must be cut in half and rotated in half.
The light is now from the side and the resulting new panel shape is better (3:1).
The prism must be cut in a different way! !
The light still has to be refraction horizontally.
There is no benefit in turning to the sky and the ground. . .
Like the example in step 1 (
Fall off the truck)
This panel has a red frame.
It is made of aluminum L profiles.
The red LEDs are inserted around, through the holes and fixed with hot glue.
On the side, the frame contains the air space of the LED strip, there is some reflection but no reflection
Guide mylar foil (
As the reflector and strip of the yellow filter and prism fixed on the wedge (
It is very important to spread the narrow beam of LEDs! ).
After wiring and testing, everything is sealed with a silicone filler and insulated with adhesive tape/hot glue.
To protect the fragile plastic sheet, an acrylic panel cover should be added outside.
The air space between the Prism and the wedge must be moisture-proof.
The wedge is made of extremely brittle plastic.
Even with great care, walk slowly with a hacksaw, trying to support both sides, 2 small (ca. 1 cm)
On the thin edge of the wedge, cracks appear when cutting.
I can cover them with frames, but hopefully they don\'t spread because the cracks block the beam and make the wedges useless.
The prism is cut and glued to the wedge with transparent glue water (there\'s 2 now).
The side of the PRISM should be outward, otherwise the glue will be very obvious and ugly.
It is difficult to see which side is which side, but a small drop of water shows an active side. (
It is better not to use glue, but with double-sided tape)(
I messed up this part: went the wrong way and it would show up badly even if the glue was the right size)In (day-)
Lights, or the white/gray color makes the device look bad when the power is off.
The yellow plastic, the binder from the office can replace the original White Paper.
In this way, it is decent during the day and at night. . .
It\'s a complete coincidence that I have a metal back plate of exactly the same size (! ! ! )
From a plasma television surgery project.
This will be done in the back to make the device look like a custom/factory made one.
In order to prevent theft, damage and weathering, the panel unit must be removable.
A receiving unit is required for a bicycle or trailer.
The back panel of the unit is equipped with 2 hooks.
There are bolts to collect the trailer.
It seems to me that the unit is too wide for the bike, but the receiver can be fixed on the seat.
What to avoid: Always make a mistake in making a brand new design, choose the wrong material or method.
If I come across another LCD monitor, I will do the following different things :-
Do not glue the sheets with glue, but fix them on the edge with double sided tape, invisible.
Prism lenses are only available for plastic/Air conversion.
If the active side is wet or glued together, its performance is loose.
Even uneven, flat surfaces are displayed as stains. -(
Don\'t forget to place the matte plate between the Prism plate and the cover plate (
It\'s all stuck now, forget it))! -
Use two panels, if any, even if only to get a larger cut of the prism lens. -
Do not pack with sausage.
It\'s better to use aluminum tape. . .
Leave more space between the led and the wedge and point them more straight to the wedge.
About my unit: the error is not serious.
The appearance of this unit seems to be somewhat worn out.
That\'s my style anyway. . .
Suggestions for further improvement/advanced model: make a unit from picture/video frame.
In this way it can display information, logo or cool colors!
Of course, it will cost more and consume more electricity.
As the prize drops, computerized display can be performed at the back of the car without spending arms or legs (
Replacing the number plate with the active display screen can save a lot of money on the traffic ticket. . . ! -
You can ask your local police if this is allowed in your area! ).