Mobile Phone LCD Screen Quality Control Expert

lcd 3d printer

by:Kimeery     2020-03-22
Update: This item does not work.
If anyone has any tips to help it make a difference, we would really appreciate your help.
I am 15 years old and interested in 3D printing about two years ago.
I tried building a fusion deposition modeling 3D printer but failed.
I have encountered too many moving parts.
So, I started to explore simpler, simpler printers.
I came across the \"Olo\" smartphone 3D printer that uses the LCD screen on your phone to solidify the resin.
I thought it was a good idea so I decided to extend it with the Monitor.
I am entering this instructions in the 3D printing contest because I really want to get a better idea of how FDM printing works and how to make my previous one better by getting a commercial printer.
I hope you can vote for it based on the merits of my instructions.
I would also like to get constructive criticism as I have been looking for better ways. Thanks! CarterItem-
Makerbeam 300mmQuantity-14Link-
Makerbeam corner CubeQuantity-8Link-
Makerbeam BearingsQuantity-4Link-
Number of Makerbeam M3 bolts-100 (
I don\'t count, but it\'s better to be safe)Link-
Number of Makerbeam right angle hanging baskets-6Link-
Number of stepping motors-1Link-
8mm screws with nuts-1Link-
Number of M3 screws and nuts-N/ALink-N/AItem-RAMPS 1.
Month w/ArduinoQuantity-1Link-
Number of LCD monitors-1Link-
12x12-inch clear glass-1Link-N/AItem-
Number of purple acrylic sheets-4Link-
1/16 thick craft WoodN/ALink-N/AItem-
Amount of aluminum horn-N/ALink-N/AItem-
12x12 quantity-expanded PVC sheet1Link-
Four Makerbeam corner cubes, the included screws and Makerbeam.
Connect all 12 blocks to the corner cube to form the cube.
This cube will be the \"chassis\" of the 3D printer \".
Next, you will build z-axis.
The motor bracket is a very difficult part.
Download the appropriate firmware to ramp 1. 4.
I use the create workshop to control my printer.
Can be found in the link below and you should also download Repetier-
Host, so you can-axis easily.
Open the repeater host.
This step may be easier if you remove the platform or move the platform so you can easily see the screen of the monitor.
Measure the height and width of the screen.
You need this later.
Make sure the display is set on the expansion screen.
Open Creative Workshop
Find the machine configuration tab.
Enter the height and width into the axis length of the x and y points.
Select Show 2 \".
Go to the machine control tab and press display in the projector section \".
Measure a square to confirm that it is a square centimeter.
If not, please adjust the x and y values to solve this problem.
Fill the resin tank with resin.
Upload the SVG file.
Change the healing time to about 12 seconds.
However, due to the low level of UV emitted by the display, please be prepared to significantly increase this value. Print the SVG.
I didn\'t get a chance to test this because I haven\'t been home for the past week and a half.
I tried to use the create workshop but it only communicates with the Monitor.
It did not speak to the ramp.
So, I\'m looking for alternatives online.
I found a program called Project layer, which is a modification.
It is listed in the extracted file and opens the file with the title \"Pronterface.
I suggest making a desktop shortcut for this program.
Connected to the ramp.
To connect, you may have to change the port or baud rate.
Connect to the ramp before plugging the ramp into the power supply.
It will give you an error to remind you that it is in \"dry run mode \".
Ignore this because it will not affect this type of printer.
Go to the file in Pronterface and click projector \".
This will open \"project layer \".
Move \"project layer Display\" to the Monitor.
Click the full screen and calibration boxes in the control window.
Adjust the number of pixels (\"X(px)\" and \"Y(px)\")
That way the grid fills up the entire screen.
Next, change \"project DX (mm)
The value per square centimeter.
Change the direction to bottom-up and blank (s)\" to 2. 5.
I chose bottom-up because, in general, the surface at the bottom is the largest, so the more things that stick to the platform.
Select the layer settings you have selected.
Make sure you take this number down because you need it later.
Change the exposure (s)\" value to 15.
You may need to improve this due to the low level emitted by the display.
Basically how long does it take for the resin to solidify. Printing-
Make sure you have the latest version of \"slicer\" on your computer \".
The new one is the best way to create \"SVG\" files.
Open the slicer and press ctrl g, which will prompt you to select the file.
Select the file to print.
I recommend a small cube first.
This is a simple print and you can consider the case of shrinkage so that you can adjust the scale in the project layer.
After opening the file, it prompts you to select a location for SVG.
I chose my desktop because it was easy to access.
Return to the project layer control panel and select load.
Select the SVG file you just created.
Click the first layer box and change the offset so you can locate the print.
If you look at it in the information section, it will tell you the number of layers of the print.
I divided this number by the total height of the print and got my layer height.
I did this because I forgot the value I used in Slic3r.
Press current to start printing.
Optional: use the first layer command to make sure you get a print that is consistent with the platform. The value \"-
1 \"The first layer is displayed indefinitely.
You can change the value so how long you want it to stay there.
This is done manually because pressing \"current\" does not take into account the extra time.
I have difficulty curing resin with LCD screen.
Asnzqwack suggested that I have replaced the original backlight with UV backlight.
To make sure the resin is cured by light, I used the inverter and plugged it into the power supply of the printer.
It cured the resin in a few seconds.
When you test this, be sure not to apply any resin to you.
The curing process is heat release and will burn you out.
It\'s also like super glue and it\'s hard to fall off once it\'s cured.
First, remove the back of the display.
This will enable you to use the old backlight.
LCDs can block almost all UV rays.
Therefore, a visible light resin needs to be selected.
It is possible to use some UV resin.
First of all, you need to change the RGB scale, so it\'s only blue/purple.
They have the lowest wavelength, some of which fall on the scale of some UV rays. You need to do this using the buttons on the display.
For the best results, you should also calibrate and set the maximum brightness, blue, and contrast using the Windows monitor.
In order to use UV resin, you first need to open a large print at the bottom. I used a cube.
Open the first level View and remember the print location.
Close the first level view.
Put 10 drops at the top of the print position.
How long does it take for the resin to harden.
Use this as your exposure time.
Expect a very large value and keep it in seconds.
I\'m going to test this resin soon, and its wavelength is the highest (blue)I have seen.
I want to create a simpler way for the removal of the platform.
I want to improve it a little too.
I used an old plastic binder on both sides of the printer because I couldn\'t cut the glass small enough to print.
I just started updating this tricky issue.
I\'m still waiting for the resin I ordered.
I will update more as soon as possible.
In this way, I will have results and be able to form a better conclusion on this project.
I am sorry that I was not able to complete and I had to post unfinished work in order to catch the deadline for the match.
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